Secure pipes to wall code#

Any transition between galvanized and copper must be done with either a brass fitting (such as those ball valves) or a dialectic union. Use wire, tape, a plastic tie, or metal clamp to secure the insulation (and plastic covering) to the pipe every 1 to 2 feet. Galvanized pipes can/should be replaced whenever a renovation is done - but there isn't the same urgency as replacing lead pipes. Galvanized pipes often get buildups of lime and corrosion, which are an issue, but they aren't a toxin like lead is. They look like galvanized pipes to me - which are not the same thing. That said, I'm not sure that the photos above are of lead pipes. Lead pipes may have a built-up lining that prevents lead leaching to the water- but that lining can be compromised if water chemistry changes (which is what happened in Flint) or if the pipes are disturbed due to maintenance or modifications.

Removing lead pipes needs to be a priority when doing any renovation - especially in areas that will be enclosed and not accessible later. I know that this is an old thread- so my comments are directed to those people who are seeing it later: I'm not trying to be a fear monger - but there is no level of lead that is safe to drink. I'm really upset with the broker that sold us this home insuring accessibility when we're told it's 6-8 days before the ice is cleared in order to drive safely down the mountain. Restoration co needs to be called after insurance. Just scared to leave this place in case water either begins to come out/burst, etc. Have 800 gallon water heater and scared to death it's ready to go, as well. Again, so afraid to leave this property as pipes are open and Architect built home matched all boards (dark on one side of opening, dark on other side, the next board down may be lighter with notches, same across the other side of opening, etc. What we need is salamander or some propane heater 30-50 degrees minimum here and at pump house, we've been told. That's my gratitude and people such as you who take the time to help someone they don't know. is to pass through or is to be built into a floor or wall of a building. I'm appreciative we have electricity however, they're warning that if ice persists, that's a definite worry. For solvent-cement jointed pipe any expansion coupling must be securely clamped.

Secure pipes to wall code#

Water company is one where we got deeper than code and that no one can get up here, if they could. It warms up for perhaps a day or so, then back to single digits or below. The 12-14' deep is deeper than code, but this is a persistent, historical cold. We are very afraid it could be there until it reaches our property, where owner hired 4 guys to dig almost 10' down. Speaking with owner 12-14' underground has been more than called for, but you are so right. Hope one can read between the lines on that one. It's difficult as husband can't do much and is VERY FORGETFUL. We have effectively done almost everything one can think and ran across this site yesterday. I've checked the article you mentioned yesterday.